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Lesson 7: let's learn about bra fit

How should a bra fit?

In order for a bra to provide sufficient support without being uncomfortable, every part must fit properly. The cups should contain the breasts without any bulging or spillage, but also without any wrinkling, gaping or looseness. Underwires should lie flat against the torso, not press on the breasts or poke. The band should hug the body firmly, sitting in a straight line rather than riding up, but not be so tight as to cause bulges or restrict movement. The gore should rest comfortably between the breasts, sitting flat against the skin rather than being held in the air. In other words, the gore should tack, not float. The straps should sit comfortably on the shoulders, not slip down or dig in. No part of a bra should cause soreness, irritation or pain, nor look unflattering. Instead, a properly fitting bra should make a woman feel more comfortable in both body and mind.

Whether a bra fits or not doesn't just depend on its size, although many problems are caused by either the band or the cups being too small or too large. Certain styles of bra are better suited to some shapes of breasts than others, whereas the way a bra is fastened can also affect its fit. Often, issues with one area can affect another, such that the wrong size of band may result in cups or straps that dig in. Some signs of a badly fitting bra include:

• the breasts spill out of the cups

  If the breasts spill out of the top of the cups, an effect referred to as quad-boob because of how the uncovered part of each breast adds a second curve, it is either because the cups are too small, or because the style of the bra doesn't offer enough coverage for softer breasts. Similarly, if the breasts spill out of the side of the cups, resulting in unflattering side boob, the cups are either too small, or the bra provides inadequate side support.

• the cups have wrinkles or pucker

  If the cups of an unpadded bra have wrinkles or pucker, there is too much material for the breasts. If the cups are baggy all over, they are too large, as may also be the case if the wrinkles are only at the top of the cups, although the latter may alternatively be caused by the cups being the wrong shape for the breasts. If, however, the wrinkles are at the bottom, or the material puckers around the nipples, the cups are too shallow, either because they are too small, or again, because they are the wrong shape for the breasts.

• the cups gape at the top

  If the cups of a padded bra gape at the top, it may simply be that the straps are too loose, or that the breasts aren't properly positioned, perhaps sitting partly under the underwires. Like wrinkles in unpadded bras, however, gaping at the top may mean that the cups are too large, or alternatively, the wrong shape for the breasts. The same is true if there is space to the side of the breasts, whereas space beneath the breasts may instead suggest that the cups are too small.

• the band digs into the sides or the back

  If the band digs into the sides or the back, especially to the extent of leaving red marks, it is likely that the band size is too small. Although a slight amount of bulging may be inevitable for women with larger, heavier breasts, flesh should not spill out around the band. The band may also be too narrow to provide comfortable support, thus not spreading the weight of the breasts over sufficiently large an area, or its material may lack adequate elasticity.

• the band rises up at the back

  If the band rises up at the back, rather than running straight around the body, it is possible that the straps are too tight, but it is more likely that the band is too loose. This may be because the band size is too large, or because the material has stretched out over time. Although bra clasps with multiple sets of eyes allow a degree of band stretching to be accommodated, eventually the material loses too much elasticity and the bra needs to be replaced.

• the straps dig into the shoulders

  If the straps dig into the shoulders, perhaps even causing indentations, it is likely that the band is too loose, again because its size is too large, or its material has become worn out. A loose band provides less support, thus putting more demand on the straps, which may also be the case if the cups are too small, or have inadequate coverage or structure. It may also be that the straps are too narrow, or are too short - either as a result of being overly tightened, or because the design of the strap doesn't allow them to be lengthened enough.

• the straps keep slipping off the shoulders

  If the straps keep slipping off the shoulders, they may be too loose, either because they haven't been properly adjusted, or because the strap elastic has lost its stretch. Straps that are set too widely also have a tendency to slip, which may occur if the bra is the wrong style for a woman's body, or if the band size is too large, and thus positions the straps further from the centre of the body. Cups that are too large may also cause the straps to slip, as a result of not being held in place by the breasts.

• the underwires sit on the breasts

  If the underwires sit on the breasts, such that part of each breast can be seen below the cups, it may be that the cups are too small, and thus incapable of containing all of the breast tissue. A band that is too loose may also cause the underwires to sit on the breasts, or even result in the breasts falling out of the bottom of the cups when reaching, because of not holding the underwires close enough to the body. This is either because the band is the wrong size, or, as discussed previously, because its material has become worn out.

• the underwires poke

  If the underwires poke, it is likely that they are the wrong size or shape. Underwires that are too small may press into the breasts, whereas ones that are too large may dig in under the arm, or else poke the centre of the chest. The underwires may fail to follow the breast roots because the cups are the wrong size, but this may also happen if the cups are the wrong style for the breasts. Underwires may be put under excess pressure by a band that is too tight, and thus be twisted or bent out of shape - perhaps so much as to be pushed out of their casings, or even to break, which can also occur if the bra is old, uses lower quality materials, or has been poorly looked after. Conversely, a band that is too loose may not hold the underwires against the body, but instead allow them to move around, again resulting in discomfort.

• the gore doesn't sit flat

  If the gore of an underwired bra doesn't sit flat, but instead lies on the breasts or floats in front of them, the bra is again either the wrong size or the wrong style. It may be that band is too large, and so fails to pull the centre of the bra close enough to the chest, or the cups may be too small or too shallow. Since the purpose of the gore is to separate the breasts, it may also be that the gore itself is too wide for the space between them, or that it is too tall, with the shape and position of the underwires being unsuitable for the bust.

• the bra causes skin irritation

  If the bra causes skin irritation, either its band or cups may be too small, digging in or causing chafing, or they may be too large, rubbing against the skin with movement. Bras that are too tight can also trap sweat, especially under the breasts, as can those that are less breathable because of having thick padding or being made with synthetic fabrics. Unsuitable materials or poorly positioned seams or lace may also lead to irritation, whereas the latex often used in band and strap elastic can result in an allergic reaction, as can the nickel found in many underwires and clasps, even when the metal is covered.

A badly fitting bra can cause discomfort far beyond its band, cups and straps, because it affects the wearer's posture. If the band does not provide adequate support, the weight of the breasts can put strain on the back, with the resulting demand on the straps encouraging stooping or hunching of the shoulders, both of which can have a knock-on effect on the neck, perhaps even causing headaches. Bra strap syndrome, formally known as costoclavicular syndrome, is where prolonged pressure causes weakness, numbness, tingling or pain in the arms or hands as a result of pinched nerves. A badly fitting bra can also restrict breathing or circulation, whereas the poor posture it induces can cause digestive problems and, over time, more serious skeletal conditions.

It is therefore critical that any bra that will be worn for any length of time should fit properly, something which can only be determined by trying it on. Although considering sizes and styles can help narrow down the huge range of garments stocked by even a small lingerie store, there is no guarantee that any given bra will fit, however much it might seem like it ought to. A bra fitting involves a woman being measured in private by a trained professional, who assesses the fit of any bra being worn, and asks questions about what is being sought. Taking into account the size and shape of the woman's breasts, her preferences and any issues or concerns, the fitter will suggest a selection of bras for her to try on, checking their fit and offering further recommendations accordingly. A successful bra fitting sees a woman leave with one or more bras that she can be confident will be both comfortable and supportive, along with an appreciation of the difference between well-fitting and badly fitting bras. Unfortunately, not all bra fittings are successful, nor do all stores have equally competent staff in this regard.

In the absence of a fitting specialist, tests that can be performed while wearing a bra include raising the arms to confirm that the breasts do not fall out, and making sure that the band does not slip when the straps are slid off the shoulders. In both cases, failure indicates that the band is too loose. Bending over, sitting down and even jumping around can offer other indications of how well a bra fits, as challenging as that may be in a changing room, although nothing compares to actually wearing a bra for a while. Unfortunately, the latter is generally possible only after purchase, raising the problem of how easily a badly fitting bra can be returned. Bras can be expensive, especially in larger or less common sizes, such that many women cannot simply buy them on a whim.

Exercises for lesson 7

1. What factors affect the fit of a bra?

2. Why is it important that a bra fits properly?

3. How can a woman ensure that her bras fit?

4. Compare and contrast a bra supporting large breasts to a heavy backpack.

5. Find examples of badly fitting bras, and discuss them.

6. Hapless Harry thinks that if a bra fits badly, it must be the wrong size, and conversely, if a bra is the right size, then there shouldn't be any problems with how it fits. Why is he wrong?