let's learn about lingerie
Lesson 5: let's learn about bra bands and straps
What are the different types of bra band?
Regardless of their design, the cups of a bra are held in place by the band. Indeed, in a properly fitting bra, it is the band that provides the majority of the support, distributing the weight of the breasts around its circumference. The band must be snug enough to anchor itself to the body without slipping, which would greatly reduce the amount of support that it could provide and thus place undue demand on the straps. At the same time, the band must not be so tight as to be uncomfortable, cause skin irritation or restrict circulation. To avoid such problems, the wings of the band are elastic, and the clasps of most bras can be fastened in several different positions to allow the tightness to be adjusted.
At the front, a full band or full frame bra has a band that continues below the bottom of the cups. The front of the band, or frame, may be a single piece of fabric, or it may consist of a central gore and two side pieces. Full band bras generally have a seam on each side that joins the front of the band to the back. This seam may be boned to provide additional support and structure, helping to stop the band from rolling up. Conversely, a partial band or frameless bra has a shorter gore that is not attached to the sides of the band, but only to the cups. In a partial band bra, the back of the band often attaches directly to the outer edges of the cups, with such bras usually relying on underwires to make up for the missing support. The shorter gore looks less substantial, placing more emphasis visually on the cups, and is also better suited to a front closure. The two bras previously illustrated in Figure 3.1 demonstrate the difference between full and partial band designs.
Because of the greater structure at the front of the band, especially in an underwired bra, the back of the band is usually made of a material that has more stretch than the front. It may take one of several forms, as illustrated in Figure 5.1:
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straight back
A straight back bra, also known as a square back or camisole bra, has a band that runs horizontally across the back, with the straps joining it at right angles. This simple design often accompanies a partial band on less substantial bras, and may be used for reasons of economy. It is also often used in strapless or convertible bras, as it keeps its shape without any straps.
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U-back
A U-back bra, also known as a ballet back or leotard bra, has a band that curves down at the back, sometimes with the straps forming part of it. Such bras tend to have deeper wings, and thus provide more support for larger busts. This design places the straps more centrally, as well as at a slight angle, which can be better for women with round or sloping shoulders.
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racerback
A racerback bra, also known as a T-back bra or wrestler back bra, has a band that curves up at the back, positioning the straps higher and closer together, or alternatively criss-crosses them, so as to angle them similarly. Sports bras often employ this design, because it allows the arms a wider range of movement as a result of the straps not going over the shoulder blades, and also stops the straps slipping or becoming visible beneath a sleeveless top. A racerback design can help distribute the weight of the breasts more evenly, offering greater comfort thanks to reducing strain on the back and shoulders.
As the name suggests, a strapless bra lacks straps, and thus relies even more on the band to provide support. Such bras tend to have wider bands made of firmer fabric, perhaps with side boning, and often feature a silicone grip strip along the inner edges, which clings to the skin so as to reduce the risk of slippage still further. Strapless bras may have cups that are designed with additional support in mind. They allow women to wear similarly strapless clothing, such as off-the-shoulder dresses, as well as garments with narrow straps, like tank tops, without worrying about bra straps showing.
A bra that has a band that extends beyond the bottom of the bust is known as a longline bra. A shorter longline bra may reach the midriff, whereas a longer one may go all the way down to the waist, albeit with the bottom of the band still being horizontal. Thanks to holding more of the torso, the longer band provides more support, reducing the demand placed on other parts of the bra. That makes this style particularly suitable for larger busted women, as well as allowing these bras to have non-wired cups. In addition to offering a greater feeling of security, longline bras also have a shaping effect, creating a smoother silhouette that minimises bulges.
The band of a pull-on bra is elastic enough to allow it to be pulled over the head, although this comes at the cost of such bras being less supportive. Generally, however, bands are fastened with a clasp. If the clasp is at the back, it is usually adjustable, accommodating both natural fluctuations in size and also the tendency of elastic to stretch over time. Bras with bigger cups often have longer bands in order to provide more support, and consequently their clasps have more hooks.
A bra extender may be used to broaden the band of a bra by adding an second set of hooks which attach to the eyes of the bra, plus additional sets of eyes which attach to the hooks of the bra. These must be matched both in number and the distance between them. Another accessory, a low back bra converter, may be used to pull the centre of the band downwards, thus concealing it beneath a scoop back dress, although the resulting distortion can affect the amount of support that a bra provides.