let's learn about lingerie
Lesson 3: let's learn about bras
What is a bra?
A bra is a garment that is worn to cover and support the breasts. It typically consists of two cups, one for each breast, held in place by a band that goes around the torso and straps that go over the shoulders. Most bras fasten at the back using a clasp comprised of a series of hooks and eyes, allowing the fit of the elasticated band to be adjusted, although there are also front-fastening and pull-on bras. A bra's straps are generally also adjustable, whereas its cups are often given greater structure by means of integral underwiring, if not padding. Bras are available in a wide variety of designs to accommodate different needs.
The word “bra” is short for “brassière”, which derives from an Old French word, braciere, a type of arm protector worn by soldiers in the seventeenth century. In the eighteenth century, the French word brassière referred to a woman's underbodice, but since then, it has come to mean vest, with un brassière de sauvetage being a life jacket (literally “a vest of rescue”). Neither the French nor the English word should be confused with brasserie, a relaxed type of restaurant.
In modern French, a bra is un soutien-gorge, where soutien derives from the verb soutenir, meaning “to support”, and gorge means “throat”, but also can also be used in a literary sense to refer to the breasts, allowing un soutien-gorge to be translated as “a breast support”. It is often abbreviated to soutif in less formal settings. In Spanish, a bra is either un sujetador or un sostén, depending on region, again both deriving from verbs meaning “to support” (sujetar and sostener respectively). German is no exception to this pattern, with a bra being ein Büstenhalter, from Büste (“bust”) and Halter (“holder”), albeit generally abbreviated to ein BH (pronounced “beh-hah”) to avoid sounding as dated or formal as “brassière” does in English.
Why do women wear bras?
As the previous discussion suggests, bras are often worn to support the breasts. Large breasts are heavy, and the demands of having to constantly bear their weight can cause pain in other parts of the body, such as the back, shoulders and neck. This can lead to poor posture, which can in turn exacerbate such problems or lead to issues elsewhere. A bra helps to distribute the weight of the bust, as well as reducing its movement, which is especially important during exercise. Without a bra, bouncing breasts can strain ligaments and muscles, resulting in discomfort that can deter women from engaging in physical activities. A bra can also help prevent chafing under and between the breasts.
Even when wobbling breasts aren't painful, they can be distracting, drawing attention to a woman's chest in a way that can make her feel self-conscious. The control that a bra provides can help a woman feel more comfortable about her body, boosting confidence and self-esteem, particularly in professional or formal settings where modesty is important. Regardless of the size of the breasts, a bra provides an extra layer of protection, both helping to stop a woman's nipples showing through clothing and shielding them from irritation. As well as being beneficial in colder weather, when breasts are more sensitive, bras can aid comfort when it is warm, thanks to being soft and breathable.
In addition to supporting and covering, many bras shape the breasts. This can help other clothing fit better and create a more flattering silhouette. Some bras enhance the appearance of a woman's breasts, giving the impression of a fuller, more lifted bust, or emphasising the cleavage. Conversely, other bras are designed to make the breasts look smaller or less conspicuous. In both cases, a bra may help a woman feel more confident about the size of her bust, as well as making it appear more proportionate to the rest of her body. Often, a woman's breasts are not identical in shape, position or size, but a bra can camouflage such differences, creating a more balanced or symmetrical shape.
Some women wear bras because they fear that not doing so will cause their breasts to sag or lose their shape. Others wear bras because that is expected of them, whether because a bra is specified as part of a professional dress code, or because of social norms. A woman may feel undressed without a bra, perhaps wearing one out of habit, or may worry that other people might get the wrong impression were she to go braless. She may wear a bra to avoid being subject to stigma, judgement or criticism, or because she is concerned about being objectified, separate to any physical need for such a garment.
A colourful bra can make a striking fashion statement when worn with a sheer or strappy top, but even when concealed by other clothing, a bra can add a secret note of luxury or indulgence to an outfit, giving its wearer a mental as well as a physical boost. A woman might wear a bra in order to feel more attractive and desirable, helping her feel good about her body and herself regardless of its effects on anyone else. A bra can serve as a form of self-expression, allowing a woman to express her individual style or assert her femininity or sexuality. A woman might also wear a bra to signal her desires when dating, to seduce or excite a lover, or to add sensuality to an erotic encounter.
What are the parts of a bra?
Broadly, one might consider a bra as being constructed of four main parts, as illustrated in Figure 3.1:
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cups
The cups of a bra hold the breasts. A cup may be made from several pieces of fabric sewn together, including outer fabric and inner lining, and may also include foam padding. It may be given greater structure by means of an underwire, a curved piece of metal or plastic that is contained in a casing or channel sewn along the bottom edge of the cup. A cup may be divided into an under cup, which provides a supportive base to the bottom of the breast, and an upper cup, which shapes its top. It may also have a side sling, providing additional support at the edge of the cup. The point where a strap joins the cup is often referred to as the apex, although this term may also be used for the bust point, which is the most projected part of the cup.
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band
The band of a bra wraps around the torso, providing most of the support. It may be divided into several parts. The gore or bridge is the front of the band between the cups, whereas the cradle or frame is the part beneath them. Depending on the design of a bra, these may be composed of a single piece of material, or there may be seams under the cups. A bra may also have a side seam, perhaps reinforced with boning, where the front of the bra joins the side panels or wings that comprise the back of the band. The top and bottom of the wings are edged with band elastic, whereas the panels themselves may be made of a different fabric to the front. The band attaches to the straps at the back, and is fastened by means of a clasp.
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straps
The straps of a bra help keep it in place by preventing the cups and band slipping down. In some designs, each strap may be divided into a front strap and a back strap. Although the front strap may be made of fabric, the back strap is generally made of strap elastic, which can be adjusted using a metal or plastic slider. A ring may connect the front strap to the back strap, or alternatively, may connect a single-piece strap to the band. Some bras use G-hooks in conjunction with short loops to allow the straps to be detached. Sliders and rings are examples of findings or notions.
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clasp or closure
The clasp of a bra, also referred to as the closure, fastens the two ends of the band together. On back-fastening bras, one half of the clasp has a number of metal hooks, generally more on larger bras, whereas the other has a corresponding number of rows of eyes, usually three for each hook, allowing the tightness of the band to be adjusted. Together, the two halves of the clasp comprise a hook and eye fastening. Front-fastening bras may use a two-piece metal or plastic clasp instead, which is less conspicuous, but does not offer the same scope for adjustment. From the wearer's perspective, the hooks are usually on the right, and thus the eyes are on the left.
Of course, there are exceptions to this general pattern. Some sports bras don't have separate cups, instead holding the breasts against the body with a single piece of elastic material. Strapless bras, as their name suggests, lack straps, whereas pull-on bras don't have a clasp, instead being stretchy enough to be pulled over the head. There are even bras that don't have a band, but instead use adhesive cups to stay in place. Such bras may be worn with backless dresses.
Even a simple bra may consist of over twenty parts, without considering any of the decorative features that make such garments more feminine. Many bras have a little bow or charm between the cups, a vestige from the days when women wore garments that required lacing. There may also be a bow at the apex of each cup, concealing how the straps are attached. The cups, band and straps of a bra may be embellished with lace, ribbons or ruffles, and there may be embroidery or appliqué, quite apart from the decorative straps to be found in some designs. When one considers how all these parts must be sewn together, it becomes clear that a bra is a surprisingly complicated item of clothing, even without the challenges presented by the wide variety of breasts such garments must accommodate.
